It's all about the Dulce de Leche

Mirta practices Feng Shui. This means don't touch the spare change under the bed and es muy importante to close the toilet before flushing so bad spirits don't come into the house - or so you don't flush away the good spirits. I'm not really sure which one. Mirta also has a serious mate habit. Mate, is a grassy herb Argentines sip from small hollowed gourds using filtered straws made of metal. It's often a communal thing. I've yet to try it. Mirta leaves her gourd by the stove and periodically adds hot water and some of the dried orange rind she keeps hanging from her ceiling. Sort of an everlasting mate. To refer to her mate, which she does often, Mirta makes the American hand signal for "call me" (thumb and pinky extended), but positions her hand as if it is the straw. Ila tells me it's sign language for Tea.

Ila's first day of school was a total success. It was just a short day. A trial. But she was happier, even without her nap, than she's been in days. She didn't want to leave. They tell us she even had seconds at lunch, but if you've seen Ila eat, or more accurately not-eat, you'll know why I'm sceptical. Back at the house Ila ran to Mirta, gave her a big hug and told her all about her day. The two of them get along well, though they can't understand each other at all. This is only a problem when they're left alone in the kitchen where there seem to be a lot of misunderstandings. Mirta suggests food, Ila nods, then refuses what is presented until Mirta spreads Dulce de Leche on the offending item. Then, all is well.

We're having amazing weather. It's quite hot in the afternoon, with an occasional cool breeze off the lake. Evenings are cool. Summer in the mountains. The flora here is much like that in California. Similar wildflowers and fruit trees. Mirta grows walnuts, apples, cherries and pears. The neighborhood is on a hillside two miles out of town, overlooking the lake and the mountains. Mostly modest, but pretty, little bungalows with fenced yards line the unpaved side roads. Closer to town the roads are paved and houses are more grand. And then you hit Bariloche proper - a maze of shops offering the apparent Bariloche essentials: beer, chocolate, fleece, t-shirts and telephone/internet service. We haven't had dinner out yet because it's included in our rent but we're looking forward to Parilla (grilled meat) on Sunday night when Liz comes through town.

Liz! I can't wait to see Liz. She's going to the states for a week, so we get to see her twice as she passes to and fro. Liz loves Bariloche and has plenty of recommendations for us. And Monday we start school which means group activities. Peter and I have agreed that we'll take turns participating in school related events, and maybe once a week, we'll leave Ila with Mirta to sip mate, and lick Dulce de Leche off hot dogs while we drink Quilmes all night with the backpacking crowd.